ProtoWizard Info Board

[carlsgems]

I know this has been beat around a number of times and I am trying to find the correct info on recalibrating the roland jwx 10. I have machine wizard and the replacement rotary with all the fixtures and the spring loaded tool sensor.

I milled the rotary test from protowizard and the piece was 8.26 mm with a webbing of .13 to .26mm, thin but there. The square top had a slight .2mm off from top to bottom milling. I recalibrate every week with the calibration rod and bit.

Any ideas why with this new calibraction set up it would be off?
I did run a tool detection once where my cable was pull out untill it was to late, I had my finger on the off button but it plunged down in to the sensor, popped back out and seems to work fine. Would the tool sensor be off because of this or does the calbration of Z come from tool touch off during recalibrating the machine? Is there a set figure for the spring loaded sensor. I am thinking that each time I wipe it off it changes slightly, or am I wrong. What sets Z after each calibration? Any advise or point in the right direction for the answers.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Carl
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Carl
Matrix 6
Roland JWX-10
ProtoWizard, MachineWizard
High Prec Rotary Axis

[jewelermdt]

One you have your machine calibrated, you should not have to do it again unless something changes. Z I believe is set by the calibration. Tool sensor tells machine wizard where the end of bit is. Then MW adjust Z depending on this. You can't put a bit in at the same level so this is what the sensor does.

To get your core to 8mm you have to adjust ZA setting in setup page. There are many sections in this forum that discuss this.
Here is one.
http://protowizard.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=696&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

Depending on what's in this box now, - no or + no. , depends on if you add to it or subtract from it.

This confuses me also. I am also back to having a slight web. and it not cutting enough in my rotary. Getting closer though.

Mike
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jwx10/W dons rotary Rhino 4 RhinoGold - Machine Wizard

[kcgold]

Your do not need to recalibrate so often. It would be better to run a test part and make any adjustments from there. From where you are now, change the Z height sensor number until you are getting a thickness .01-.02mm thinner than your designed dimension. You have to be measuring a thickness that was cut by the same tool on both sides in the flip.

If the mill is cutting good parts, LEAVE IT ALONE! Every recalibration introduces the possibility of minor errors. Only a properly executed part is proof that you are perfectly aligned. When I do mill installations, I have always found small changes need to be made after MW has done its job.
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JWX-10 w/ CEAT Rotary Head
Rhino 4
ProtoWizard 4
MachineWizard

[carlsgems]

Thanks KCGold, I just have an uneasy feeling about what I did to my new tool sensor. I was cleaning the machine out and the cable was not making good contact. I was getting ready to mill a piece with a new pyramid bit and the tool touch off started and kept pushing into the fixture in micro seconds, I have taken your advice from earlier and keep my finger on the off button when I start any thing, but it was to late and the spring cap went into the cylinder, but popped back out. I emailed Don and said it should be fine. I still do not know if over compressing the spring has cause it to be off by different touch off and when cleaning the machine and pressing it in. Does it come back to the same exact spot after being pressed in. The only reason I recalibrate is to make sure the sensor setting is current for the next mill job. I stay away from touching the sensor as to not push it in and change the ZA point. I have been able to get it with in .08mm. I am trying to go through the adjusting steps again and not screw up. Part of my problem is trying to make almost impossiable milling jobs that should be grown or made it two parts. Part of it to is understanding the bits and what effect the two sided flip with rotary has. When cuttting deep into the rings side I am cutting away to much wax and the rotary is off but have made some killer ring shanks, less messed up heads and bezels. I will get there. KCGold you have saved me a lot of time and I have enjoyed the journey and still the fact it is constant learning. Sorry for the long rant but some jobs come out super and some I just scratch my head and say what the &*%$^^.

Thanks Again,

Carl
_________________
Carl
Matrix 6
Roland JWX-10
ProtoWizard, MachineWizard
High Prec Rotary Axis

[jewelermdt]

I am with you Carl.

Some things I mill come out good. Others I wonder. Curse I am still learning this thing but getting closer. Simple flips like pendants come out great. Just having to figure out rings. I think a lot has to do with the design. How thick to make prongs, bezels, heads. By the time the bit goes down to bottom of head, it thins out the top area. Tried a straight end mill from harbor freight to do a ring top to keep side straight. Set it up as three separate cutting jobs. Turned out pretty good. My biggest problem is on rotary, it does not cut away on shank. Leaves a little of the supports.

Mike
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jwx10/W dons rotary Rhino 4 RhinoGold - Machine Wizard

[p schmidt]

hey carl, you might want to check the surface of your tool sensor after sinking the bit into it it... probably left a pit so you may want to rotate the sensor a little so when you set you zero your not setting it from the bottom of the pit...also you may want to start thinking about designing your pieces (prongs and such ) taperd to to the degree angle of the bit your going to use or make a test piece like so...(the piece is chewed up from just breaking off the outer wax wall and has water drops on it and some wax flakes.. sorry)) this was milled all in one pass...if you look at the screen capture it will show the effects of a 10 degree bit on a prong ... shown is 1.5mm prong, from 1mm to 5mm high and how much it will 'grow' at the base..... notice the 5mm prong is 1.5 at the top and 2.38 at the bottom... the wax also shows straight walls I made starting at 1mm tall to 7mm tall (the prongs are 1-7mm tall also)


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roland mdx-40, mdx 15
rhino, rhino gold, hypershot, next engine 3d scanner, vector magic, and more..
phone 630 553-6001

[carlsgems]

Sorry to get back to this so late. I have run the head prn from the one Don had posted. This is a great basic file for big tapers and bead prongs on a flat areas of the top of the setting. P Schmidt is right on on the milling and the tapering of the prongs because of height and bit angle. I had to learn the hard way by milling rings with the prongs chewed away to nubs. It sunk in and now I get it. It is fellow goldsmiths and cad/cam people on this forum that has gotten my you know what out of a closing vise. The guys that have taken a great deal of time and effort to help the newer milling goldsmiths out is priceless and as an old friend told me after finally get something right after many errors,
" the time and money spent learning is tuition in life". Never wasted time but time in learning. Some of our mistakes makes it easier to remember the next time we try.
p schmidt, kcgold, merlin, mghjewel and a list of other have a lot to teach us all if we would just slow down, read it more then once, let it sink in and it will work. They have yet to let me down on instuctions on how to make it right.

Again Thanks Guys for all the help